19 August 2009

Do it for the kreplach

I've been thoroughly impressed by David Sax's single-mindedness in his attempt to Save the Deli in the US.

Deli, read Ashkenazi, food is a phenomena in the US, but has never reached the same vaulted position in the UK.  If David thinks things are getting bad in the US, he should look at the UK.  Well he did, and he liked what he saw.  But can there be any doubt that what we have pales in significance to the US experience.

This video is the preview for the US edition of his forthcoming book.  Having just watched it I'm hungry and drooling at all that pickled meat.

As the video reminds us, what the world needs now is schmaltz, sweet schmaltz, it's the only thing that there's just too little of.  Other than gribenes, of course.

12 August 2009

Shaun Hill interview & podcast

I had intended that I'd record my interview with Shaun, write it up and just put snippets of our chat as recordings on the site.

However, I enjoyed the call so much, and he's so brilliantly frank about himself and other chefs, that I've decided instead to leave it in his voice, not mediated by me at the keyboard and let you listen to our chat in its entirety.  

A couple of apologies up front: the sound at my end is a bit rubbish and I waffle at the start, but I think I pick up the pace eventually.

I was intrigued to learn about the history of the iconic Walnut Tree.  I hadn't realised that Corbin and King were once involved, nor the truly dire consequences of Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares. I was sadly oblivious until tonight of Bill Baker, However, I was heartened to hear Shaun is keen to continue writing.  (Although The Merchant House Cookbook is sadly out of print, you can get it from the ever excellent Gardener & Cook.) 

I was also particularly pleased to hear that he hasn't changed his guiding principle that restraint and simplicity of execution are essential and his views on the science of food.

He lays into the odd person as well, which makes for entertaining listening if nothing else.

I haven't done a podcast for a while, so as a quick reminder, you can listen to it either on the site or in iTunes, where you can subscribe to this and previous podcasts.

I just hope it lives up to expectations.

Link to mp3 of Shaun Hill podcast
Link to Silverbrow on Food on iTunes

11 August 2009

Food bloggers vs food PRs - the smackdown, or not

When Tim Hayward asked me if I'd say a few words at last night's Bloggers & PR Summit, I thought I'd just be one of the audience talking for 30 seconds.  The truth unfolded over the course of last weekend with a series of tweets and emails from Tim and Sarah Canet, owner of Spoon PR, and Tim's co-organiser. 

So last night I wasn't in the audience but sitting on a table with Sarah, Tim, fellow food blogger, Oliver Thring and a three-strong contingent from Lutchford.

The premise of the evening was that bloggers and food PRs don't understand each other, so we should sit down, look in the whites of each others' eyes and sort out our differences. 

It was clear from last night that a large swathe of bloggers and PRs simply don't get each other.  I think it comes down to a fundamental misunderstanding of the others' motives.

PRs are there to represent their clients, de facto they are looking out for their client's best interests.  They are used to working with journalists, who are not only trained but do what they do in return for a pay-cheque, as do the PRs themselves.

Bloggers are largely untrained and unpaid.  However they are fanatical and passionate about what they do.

Some bloggers assume their ability to logon to their blog software of choice, gives them carte blanche to demand attention from the food industry.

Equally, some PRs assume that because they represent the best chefs/restaurants/products they deserve to be able to be part of the discussion with bloggers.  I think perhaps this is the biggest change they're having to deal with. 

This sense of entitlement, coming from both sides is wrong, but it's understandable.

Bloggers often are not from a communications background and with a misplaced sense of 'their ethics' they think either they don't need PRs or PRs are downright dirty.

PRs are not used to not being part of the conversation and believe they have a lot to add.

In both cases there are those who are on the sides of right and wrong.

PRs are a fantastic resource and are gatekeepers.  Bloggers as fanatics are desperate to say good things about what they're writing.  The two should get on like the proverbial burning house. 

Speaking for myself, I am an amateur and revel in that status.  I love food (and am growing to love writing) so any help I can receive to enhance my experience is very gratefully received.

But that's not to say I want to be spammed by PRs and I'm not a panting puppy waiting for any scrap thrown my way.  I spend a lot of time and some money putting effort into this site and although I write primarily for myself, I appreciate that I have built up a certain level of credibility.  I'm not going to sully it - the consequences when you do are painful.  But wouldn't any journalist who values their credibility as independent arbiters say the same?  Most I'm sure would.  Although, as an aside, I am flummoxed how Fay Maschler manages to be both a critic and run a consultancy, despite her disclosure.  There must be some sort of conflict there that would freak out many bloggers.

Nonetheless, working with PRs is not eating with the enemy.  It is, when working with good PRs, getting good information and access.

One of the most fascinating things for me that came out of last night was the dynamic between the PRs and their clients.  Two aspects were particularly interesting. 

First, they said that in order to get paid they needed to demonstrate a value next to all relevant coverage.  I assume therefore they have some sort of rate card so that if a client is mentioned by AA Gill, the PR firm is paid £x and by Fay Maschler they are paid £y.

I find this bizarre.  This is PR not advertising.  As such it is about influencing decision makers, not measuring the number of eyeballs that see a poster campaign.   How does one ever measure influence? 

Nonetheless that is the industry norm so nearly everyone in the room last night seemed to stick to it.  The consequence is that this very false measure of success entrenches the old guard: it is more valuable for a PR to focus their attention on a print journalist (happily ignoring the multifarious problems the print industry is facing) because they earn more money doing so, and that will be true next time they're promoting something and so on.

Which brings me onto the second thing I noticed, the dynamic between PRs and their clients.  Clearly by sitting in the room, the PRs felt us bloggers had some value but repeatedly speakers said that their clients refused to believe bloggers are relevant. 

As hard as it is to measure the success of PR it is equally hard to measure the readership of blogs.  Although there are ways of measuring readership of pages, it doesn't include those who subscribe to RSS feeds, follow on Twitter or through Facebook.  Nor does it take into account the quality of one's readership or the quality of the blogger themselves. But this lack of measurement means, in this slightly warped fee structure, that there is no value attached to any of our content.

So it seems that the food PR industry is in a bind.  They clearly know some bloggers are relevant, they just can't prove it. 

Now possibly the luddite chefs are right and bloggers are a complete irrelevance.  It has to be a possibility, but lets face it, it is unlikely that there are no bloggers worth engaging with.  I don't think anyone would argue the Dos Hermanos aren't important voices in UK food and their theoretical reach is much wider than that of any print copy journalist.

So why don't PRs convince their clients that they're wrong.  They are hired as advisors in how to deal with communications.  They should be advising their clients that (some) bloggers are very relevant and influential.  They also should be doing the groundwork in figuring out who the relevant bloggers are.  And remember, as with print journalists, the relevant bloggers will depend on the product being flogged.  We are not a homogenous group.  But then again, neither are PRs.

Finally, the corollary of the focus on the rate card and the inability to value (financially or emotionally) bloggers means interestingly that PRs and their clients must attribute zero value to the online coverage of the print journalists.  So what are the implications for PRs, chefs and print journalists if the doom-mongers are right and print journalism declines rapidly?  Who gets paid then?

05 August 2009

Shaun Hill interview postponed

Unfortunately I've had to postpone my interview with Shaun until next Wednesday - I've had a real life/non-blog issue cause a clash.  All being well, it will definitely be next week.

31 July 2009

Forthcoming interview with Shaun Hill

Image of Shaun Hill, chef

I'm very excited to be able to say that next week I'm interviewing Shaun Hill, chef of the revered Walnut Tree. 

He's something of an icon for me.  I think of him as the father of great British food, his brothers in arms including Rowley Leigh, Alistair Little and Simon Hopkinson, his bastard children Marco Pierre White and Fergus Henderson.

Please let me know if you've got any questions you think I should ask.  The interview is taking place on Wednesday.

30 July 2009

Organic food ain't all that

For those of you that don't follow me on Twitter you won't have seen my appeal to read Tim Hayward's excellent article.  His fundamental point is that the organic movement is inherently problematic for those who care about their food.

It's a topic I've tried to address before and he deals with brilliantly.

Foodies have been turning away from the 'organic movement' for a long time now. It had to happen really. There's nothing we love more than to to get into nerdy conversations with suppliers about provenance, rearing and growing practices, and it takes no time at all to realise that caring about quality products and wanting to bring something brilliant to market have absolutely no correlation with the ability to jump through the expensive hoops necessary for an organic certification.

As an aside, I've just spotted that Seeds of Change are sponsoring Word of Mouth. Seeds of Change crows loudly on its website about its organic status, and slightly more quietly that it's owned by Mars, International.  Kudos to WoM for taking such a clear independent editorial line, not I hasten to add, that there's any reason to think it wouldn't.

27 July 2009

The Bull & Last

Thomas Friedman's Golden Arches Theory of Conflict Prevention has been discredited, but I feel that the academic field of peace studies has a lot to learn from my contribution

I've never claimed to be a social scientist (although I am by training, but let's ignore that) so I want to revise my thesis and argue that in fact toasted cheese sandwiches are the answer to peace.  A great cheese sandwich is the apotheosis of a great civilisation. Think about what goes into it: the right bread; cheese that melts to the correct extent; cooking time - do you want bubbling or burnt cheese? and finally, condiments if any.

And I think that The Bull & Last's cheddar and spring onion toastie might just be what the world is after.  You might feel a cheese sandwich is a bit prosaic for the high-brow Silverbrow, but good places get the basics very right.

What I got was two not-quite doorsteps of toasted granary, between which was oozing cheese and onion.  Admittedly it turned up on a rather fussy wooden board that wasn't big enough to stop oniony cheese streaming onto the table, but the sandwich itself was delicious.  Maybe I'm not sufficiently inventive, but I'd never thought about combining spring onion in a toasted sandwich.  It's far from the craziest combo, nonetheless, not one I'd considered for a toasty.  And it works so well.  So well.  And the sweet pepperiness of the sandwich was nicely offset by the not-too-sweet onion pickle.

Now, although I say getting the simple things right is the sign of a great restaurant, they do sometimes get things wrong: my green beans with garlic were overcooked, tasteless and a oily.  But I'll ignore that because at the same time as delivering my very spicy tomato juice, the very sweet waitress also put on my table a jug of water WITH ICE and bread and butter.  Very cold water, bread and butter are all things that make me a happy diner.    

Oh and good ice-cream only makes things better.  I had wanted one of the cartons of chocolate ice-cream but was told I wasn't allowed them as they are for take-away only.  I had to stay on-menu.  I found this slightly odd as I was there mid-week and there was barely anyone else around, they weren't about to run out of take-away pots.  Nonetheless, I was convinced to try the Ferrero Rocher ice-cream when I was assured by the bar man that it wasn't ice-cream made from Ferrrero Rocher, but ice-cream flavours that constituted the chocolate ball (chocolate, gianduia, hazelnut nibs) and it was very good.  Someone in their kitchen is a dab hand with frozen custard.

What was supposed to be a quick working turned into a thoroughly enjoyable meal that promises a lot for bigger, better experiences.  At long last North London has a gastropub it can be proud of.

UPDATE: I had dinner here last week and it was just as good an experience as my cheese sandwich lunch.  I implore you to try the anchovy beignets if they're on the menu.  Large anchovies, deep fried in a perfectly crunchy, unsoggy batter, served with the best tartare sauce I can remember eating - a reminder that sauces should be more than an afterthought to pep-up dull ingredients.

Google Maps

The Bull & Last, 168 Highgate Road, London, NW5 1QS, UK
Tel: +44 (0)20 7267 3641

What others think

Giles Coren - I’ve been back and back and back. Ten, maybe 12 visits.
Dos Hermanos - The Bull and Last is an absolutely terrific gaff.
Gourmet Chick - The. Best. Chips. In. London.